【OUTSM X 強尼】15個讓你衝浪進步的方法(下)

8. No crazy eyes 別殺紅了眼

Don’t try and get in the zone in the water.

I feel that it never helps when you free surf.

When you go freesurfing you need to take it as a new experience and not put pressure on it.

The coolest stuff happens when you’re having fun.

Go out with an open attitude.

If you’re having a good time and not worrying about falling off,

it reflects in the way your session goes. If you paddle out going,

“I’ve gotta do the sickest air,”

you tend to get pissed off and never achieve it.

有時候我們下水會想說

我今天要做出一個瘋狂的 Air或是什麼動作之類的。

但是一直沒做出來就會生氣,而且也會一直做不出來,

衝浪應該開心就好,而且不是所有浪型都適合某些動作的,

很多衝浪的律動跟重新體驗都是來自於享受衝浪,

在海面上,用身體,用心情享受當下的浪況。

常常這麼做去感受這個自然。

相信對於衝浪的感覺會更不一樣。

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9. Bubba steps 布巴步驟

Know that sometimes less is more.

The hardest thing for someone learning is the fact that they wanna do

things the way they see them straight away, instead of taking the baby steps

that the guy who can do it has taken over the years. When you see the best guys in

movies do something, you forget they’ve chopped out the 800 that weren’t made or

didn’t look as cool. You can’t worry about how it looks, you need to realise there’s

steps to take before you get to that point. When you’re learning finners,

you won’t do one like Reynolds where you hit the lip vertically and go inverted.

You’ve gotta start doing little horizontal slides. You’ve gotta start basic.

有時候越少就是越多,

所有事情都有他的進步步驟,

有一些人可能會覺得她想跳過一些簡單的基礎,

直接挑戰後面的部份。

(比方說新手連看浪,做浪板都無法好好執行的狀態下就想衝短板)

循序漸進,學習好基礎才是重點

很多人都會問說:

請問一下我是新手,想衝短板,請問要多短的板子比較適合?

基本上如果是新手,有交通上面的困擾的話。

還是建議盡量以車子裡面能放下的大小來決定,

能放多大張就放多大張吧!

初學者真的不要衝太小張得板子,會很辛苦又很累喔。

在學會下浪之前先好好划水吧!


10. Know your surfboards 了解你自己的衝浪板

Learn to pick boards that suit conditions.

Progressing has a lot to do with having fun.

It’s silly to ride a high-performance shortboard when it’s

two-foot and weak, when you could be on a fish and getting all sorts

of speed to do airs. You can’t force a situation.

There’s a board for every condition.

There’s so many options with shapes, rockers, fins, fin systems.

It’s endless. If you’re bored with something, try something different.

學習以自己的能力挑選適合當下浪況的板型這樣才能夠愉快的衝浪,

如果在只有膝蓋高的浪挑選了高性能的短板是一件很蠢的事。

衝浪板有很多需要學習的地方,

比方說板型,rockers Fin,系統 ,等等,你可以嘗試更多組合在不同的浪況之中。

我們沒有很厲害,沒有很PRO所以需要一些工具幫我們協助。

衝浪板之所以有這麼多的尺寸跟板型也是為了可以讓你享受不同狀況,

不同浪型,不同身材的玩家好好享受衝浪這一件事情。

所以了解你手上有的衝浪板,

什麼板型適合適合讓你應對哪一種類的浪況也很重要。

所以衝浪板,不嫌多的,嘿嘿嘿

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11. Know your mood 了解你自己的心情

Your surf can be dictated by your mood.

If you’re super amped-up on coffee and wanna go out and

do a million of the sickest turns or biggest airs, you’re gonna

go and try it. Not to say you’re gonna do it, but you’ll at least

have the energy to try. There’s also times when you just wanna cruise and trim.

The mood’s set before you paddle out.

在你游出外海之前你的心情已經決定了,

如果你今天想要嘗試很瘋狂的air或是carve,

所以在衝浪之前可以先好好整理一下你自己的心情。

你今天想把自己當衝浪選手一樣比拼,

或是今天就是來放鬆得拿一張魚板下水,

整天的衝浪風格都會很不一樣呢。


12. You can do anything 你可以做到任何事

View a trick as achievable. Everything takes a certain type of wave.

There’ll be things that you think are unachievable until one day you surf a wave

that’s perfect for that trick. Then you try it and go, wow, it is achievable.

You get that little bit of inspiration and then you know what to go for

when those conditions are right. Say a rodeo is something you’d love to do.

If you always surf fat waves, you’re never going to get the opportunity to try it,

and you’re going to think it’s unachievable.

It’s about knowing waves and knowing what to try in what conditions.

每一種浪型都有適合的動作,

有時候你覺得某些動作都無法完成,

但是某一天浪型對了你可能就成功了,

最重要的就是你要在對的浪型上做相呼應的動作。

如果你總是衝厚厚偏緩的浪你就沒有機會去嘗試某一些動作,

衝浪動作一切都是要建構於你對於浪型的了解,


13. Waves are teachers 浪就是你的老師

There’s something to learn from every wave.

If you grow up on a beachbreak you’re gonna surf different conditions 365 days a year.

But if you grow up somewhere like the Gold Coast with long point breaks,

you definitely have an advantage of being a local and knowing the wave inside out.

Beachbreaks are always a tough one,

but they’re also a good thing because you learn to adapt

to every different condition. There’s a positive to everything.

每一道浪都有可以教導你的東西,

如果你是長期在沙灘地形的浪點,你一年365天可能都在衝不一樣的浪型。

不過你要是長期在類似黃金海岸的定點起浪點衝浪,

你一定有LOCAL的基本常識的優勢知道如何從這邊的inside到outside。

沙灘浪點通常都比較硬,因為假如浪大的時候浪頭比較容易跑來跑去,

不過他也有很棒的好處就是讓你學習如何快速的適應。

不管在任何情況,保持好積極的的方式面對所有情況。

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14. Get a crazy pal 找一個瘋狂的同伴

Find a friend who you can push you in big waves.

You definitely need someone to push you and if they’re around the same age,

even better. It’s a huge motivation.

This applies to all waves, really. If you’ve

got someone that’s a similar ability and age, it always brings out the best in you.

找到一個可以逼你或是迫使你下大浪的朋友,

你一定可以同年紀甚至更大並且可以強迫你進步的朋友,

若是有的話的話對您當然是最好的。

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15. Get competitive 競爭吧

Recognise your competitiveness and play to your strength.

Competitiveness isn’t something you can force. Everyone’s

competitive to an extent, but it’s the people who aren’t afraid

of losing or looking silly who learn the most. There’s always people

who are too worried about how they’d look if they lost.

Guys like Craig Anderson aren’t competitive in a contest sense, but they’re

competitive in the sense that they wanna do a bigger air or get more barrels,

and bring out the best movie part. You’ve gotta push your surfing when you’re

filming those movie sections. Competitiveness is always there, just in different forms.

或許可以試試看”參加比賽吧”

有競爭的心情可以加強你的心靈層面強度,

也會培養你的力量對抗任何事情,

有時候人們總是會在意自己比賽輸掉看起來有多蠢,

但是請不用擔心,

不試試看怎麼知道呢?

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#KEEPSURFING


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